Dior jewelry according to Victoire de Castellane
“ I couldn’t imagine my life without jewelry, ” said Victoire de Castellane , surrounded by magnificent, sparkling pieces from her latest collection at the Dior jewelry store on New York’s 57th arrondissement.
“ It would be so sad, they are such an integral part of my life. ” Much of de Castellane’s success can be explained by this sincere, authentic, and unpretentious passion for jewelry . Last year, she celebrated her 20th anniversary as creative director of Dior ’s high jewelry collections. She was working on a 100-piece luxury jewelry collection, the largest of her career, which was slated for the Fall 2019 runway.
Last October, she was in New York to meet exclusive clients and offer them equally exclusive pieces from her collections. These included cocktail rings from her very first Dior jewelry collection (1999), XXL and very glamorous rings, quite similar to the rings John Galliano was making at the time. There were also jewels with hidden symbols, as well as secret compartments, from her Versailles-inspired collection. Skull necklaces , which are now her trademark, and very popular with young women on a tight budget. Rose Dior Bagatelle rings, with their incredibly realistic petals set with diamonds. And, finally, pastel-toned earrings from her Granville collection, named after Dior's childhood home in Granville, Normandy.
Seeing all these jewels gathered in one piece only reinforces the imprint de Castellane has left on Dior jewelry . “ When I think about what I’ve done for the house over the past 20 years, it’s as if we’ve started writing a story with multiple identities, codes, and colors that have become my own, ” she said. “ I work with a lot of traditional and classic themes, but I think I interpret them with my inner child. For me, Dior jewelry is really a mix between traditional influences and a freer interpretation. ”
This often brings us back to 3 omnipresent themes that define his work:
- The Dior archives (from couture to materials to Monsieur Dior himself)
- Asymmetry , which she often uses in a subtle, hidden way
- And, above all, his belief that jewelry is above all emotional , a sentimental treasure. Something “that becomes a part of you.”
In October 2018, Victoire de Castellane took the time to discuss her career with Vogue. Her favorite pieces of jewelry, how women's attitudes toward jewelry have evolved, her two decades at Dior... many topics were discussed.
Asymmetry, one of the secrets of de Castellane's Dior jewelry since its beginnings
“ When I start creating a piece of jewelry, I always start working with asymmetry, ” de Castellane explained. “ Even for my Incroyable cocktail rings, each side is different, so when you’re alone with your ring you can observe it from all angles and let your imagination wander. There’s no one way to look at it; it’s open. I like this idea of openness in jewelry design. ”
Wherever you look, this taste for asymmetry is evident. For example, her new Dior Dior Dior collection features what are probably the most daring earrings she's ever created, much like her pair of cultured pearl earrings, one in yellow gold and the other in white gold. It's easy to see these atypical earrings on the ears of a young celebrity, or simply an anonymous young woman who simply loves unique and surprising jewelry .
“ Women today wear jewelry in a completely different way, especially younger women, ” said de Castellane. “ Before, clients mostly came from a bourgeois background; they often wore a set, sometimes just for going out. Today, the spirit is more bohemian; we wear our jewelry more on a daily basis, and for me, it should be an integral part of who you are. The total look is a thing of the past.”
When I started in the jewelry world, I thought that jewelry could make you look older than you are, especially when you wear it seriously, you can look 10 years older! But, today, by mixing pieces you can rejuvenate, have fun.
Interpretation of Monsieur Dior's codes
Twenty years isn't a long time considering that the house of Dior is over 70 years old. Victoire de Castellane has created several jewelry collections inspired by the house's founder's love of gardens and flowers . She regularly explores the Dior archives to draw inspiration from Dior's fabrics, couture techniques, and classic silhouettes. For example, the new Dior Dior Dior collection is a tribute to the lace of yesteryear. It features necklaces as light as air and ultra-thin rings .
Every designer who came after Monsieur Dior used lace, including Ralf Simons when he was inspired by the 1946 Miss Dior dress, which inspired the Dior emerald Bar Corolle Emeraude bracelet . " I don't work at the same pace as fashion designers, because when I create, I have to work two years in advance. But since I'm inspired by the house of Dior, when a new ready-to-wear designer arrives, I immerse myself in what they do. "
Jewelry tells a story for all generations
“ When I create a piece of jewelry, I also like to think that I’m doing it for a small family, ” she continues. “ When I want to make a rose ring, I think about what my grandmother would like, even if her granddaughter’s tastes are different. I try to think about different types of women and girls, who are different and who will wear my jewelry. That’s why I like to create different jewelry, pieces that will appeal to different types of women, or that will be affordable for young girls who don’t have a lot of money. It’s with this philosophy that I created the small Rose de Vents chain rings and the Oui rings. It allows you to wear real jewelry when you’re young, when you want something fresh and you don’t necessarily want to wait for someone to give it to you. I really like to play with the little one. ”
Her Memento Mori skull rings and necklaces can also be placed in this category. Antique jewelry that has become collectibles today, by the way. That said, what jewelry does Castellane wear? For this interview, she wore a very youthful and eclectic mix of rings of all sizes. Gemstone rings, a vintage wedding band , a turquoise cocktail ring, and a pearl ring from her grandmother. " Every time I look at her, I think of her, " she said.
“ Your jewelry becomes a part of your life. It’s like tattoos. When people get tattoos, they want something that tells a story. It’s exactly the same with jewelry. I love watching women wear jewelry; it’s so fascinating. When you move, your earrings move with you; it’s a kind of continuity of your movements. I think it’s very sensual and intimate. When I see a woman wearing jewelry, I think that whatever she’s wearing, she likes it. It’s a very strong feeling; maybe she’s wearing a piece of jewelry from her mother and grandmother, which has strong sentimental value. Also, wearing jewelry every day is even more interesting because it gives you a sense of radiance. It’s really like makeup, ” she concludes.
