Antique jewelry: the cameo is making a comeback

Long confined to the connoisseur market of antique jewelry, the cameo is making a big comeback in jewelry. Rihanna, through her fashion house Fenty, has just launched a collection of cameo pendants. Before that, she had already fallen for this type of vintage jewelry, regularly wearing a Jacquie Aiche cameo ring and Lanvin pendants.

A Renewed Interest in Antique Cameo Jewelry

Cameo jewelry is one of those vintage pieces highly sought after by collectors. Now, these designs are reappearing in contemporary fashion. Long considered outdated, cameo jewelry is now worn by women of all ages. Was it due to this renewed interest sparked by Rihanna that Warstki's stand at TEFAF New York attracted crowds with its collection of cameo jewelry on sale?

Amedeo Scognamiglio at the Forefront of Cameos

Thomas Holman, director of Wartski, can only note, to his great delight, the return to favor of cameo jewelry. The trend was primarily set by Amedeo Scognamiglio. His See No Evil cameo jewelry appeared at Bergdorf, and they did not go unnoticed. Others imitated him, creating a snowball effect.

A Brief History of the Cameo

Initially, the cameo was a simple engraved stone worn on oneself. The first cameos were used as seals. From functional, the cameo gradually transformed into an artistic accessory. Notables notably featured their portraits on cameos they wore or offered to their most loyal supporters. Crowned heads particularly made a habit of offering cameos to their close guard.

Cameos also served as good luck charms. They could represent the patron saint of a guild, for example. In the 19th century, the history of the cameo took a turn when seashells were first used in Naples. This replacement of expensive agate with a cheap material led to the democratization of the cameo.

It was also in the 19th century that jewelry embraced the cameo, notably through the creation of massive brooches with sculpted motifs. Forgotten, cameo jewelry was for a long time the object of interest for lovers of antique jewelry. Until 2019 and their return to grace. In this regard, see the best ways to wear a brooch.