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Article: Antique jewelry: the cameo is making a comeback

Bijoux anciens : la camée fait son retour

Antique jewelry: the cameo is making a comeback

Long confined to the connoisseur market of antique jewelry, the cameo is making a big comeback in jewelry. Rihanna, through her fashion house Fenty, has just launched a collection of cameo pendants. Before that, she had already fallen for this type of vintage jewelry, regularly wearing a Jacquie Aiche cameo ring and Lanvin pendants.

A renewed interest in antique cameo jewelry

Cameo jewelry is one of those vintage pieces that are highly sought after by collectors. Now, these designs are reappearing in contemporary fashion. Long considered outdated, cameo jewelry is now worn by women of all ages. Is it because of this renewed interest sparked by Rihanna that Warstki's stand at TEFAF New York attracted crowds with its collection of cameo jewelry that was for sale?

Amedeo Scognamiglio at the forefront of the cameo

Thomas Holman, director of Wartski, can only note, to his great delight, the return to grace of cameo jewelry. The trend was mainly set by Amedeo Scognamiglio. His See No Evil cameo jewels appeared at Bergdorf, and they did not go unnoticed. Others imitated him, which led to a snowball effect.

Brief history of the cameo

Initially, the cameo was a simple engraved stone that one wore. The first cameos were used as seals. From functional, the cameo gradually transformed into an artistic accessory. Notables would notably feature their portrait on cameos that they wore or offered to their most loyal supporters. Crowned heads notably had the habit of offering cameos to their close guard.

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Cameos also served as lucky charms. They could represent the patron saint of a corporation, for example. In the 19th century, the history of the cameo took a turn when shells were used for the first time in Naples. This replacement of expensive agate by a cheap material led to the democratization of the cameo.

It was also in the 19th century that jewelry embraced the cameo. Notably through the creation of massive brooches with carved motifs. Forgotten for a long time, cameo jewels were for many years the object of interest for enthusiasts of antique jewelry. Until 2019 and their return to grace. On this subject, see the best ways to wear a brooch.

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