Bravery: Louis Vuitton’s new 2021 high jewelry collection
200 years ago, the icon of French luxury, Louis Vuitton , was born . To celebrate the anniversary in style, the house unveiled a new fine jewelry collection inspired by its formidable founder and his impact on jewelry in general: Bravery . Jewelry is born from multiple inspirations. Rarely, however, does it take one man’s life as its starting point. Louis Vuitton’s latest collection, Bravery, is as fearless as its name suggests, just like Louis’ life.
This collection of 90 luxury jewels was born from the brainchild of Francesca Amfitheatrof , artistic director of Louis Vuitton jewelry and watches . The 53-year-old designer delved into the house’s archives to ensure that Vuitton’s heritage was accurately and artfully captured in this Bravery jewelry collection. And that was no small feat, given that the visionary is credited with creating the iconic canvas trunks and the famous LV monogram, among many other innovations (the tumbler lock, for example) that paved the way for modern luxury.
Aptly titled Bravery, the collection is divided into 8 chapters that chronologically trace Vuitton's life. It is a sort of jewelry biography told using the finest gemstones and metals. Louis Vuitton necklaces are the centerpiece of each chapter, symbolizing the defining moments in the designer's life. The collection also includes rings , earrings, and brooches.
The Constellation of Hercules: First Chapter of the Bravery Collection
The first chapter, The Constellation of Hercules , owes its name to the constellation under which Vuitton was born on August 4, 1821. Thus, the plastron necklace is composed of tanzanite, tsavorite and Australian opals which represent the celestial vault.
The next major milestone in Vuitton’s life was his departure from his mother’s home at the age of 13. Just a few years after his mother’s death. Fleeing the proverbial tyrannical stepmother, he set out to travel to Paris. It took him 3 years to travel the 400 km from his rural Jura region in eastern France to the capital. Having to make a living, he worked for artisans along the way. This allowed him to accumulate a know-how that would be invaluable to him later on. This sad episode is represented in the striking La Flèche necklace. It features 3 rows of platinum, yellow gold and white gold, entirely set with diamonds and Colombian emeralds to represent the forests.
“ Driven by his curiosity about the world, he embarked on this incredible journey across France. That’s why we named this collection Bravery, ” Amfitheatrof said in a statement. “ It’s not a word often used in fine jewelry. Yet, these notions of determination and adventure are unique to Louis Vuitton, and we wanted to express them through this collection. ”
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Bravery: jewelry in homage to Louis Vuitton
Two years ago, Francesca Amfitheatrof delved into the house’s archives to discover the man behind the brand. The life of the visionary who anticipated the rise of international travel in the 19th century, and whose inventions, such as the stackable canvas trunk in 1858, earned him awards around the world.
Louis Vuitton’s La Flèche necklace reflects its founder’s single-minded determination to reach Paris. According to its creator, the necklace reflects “ the irresistible force that draws him to Paris .” Centered on a magnificent blue sapphire, the piece embodies the aesthetic codes of the house’s fine jewelry: dynamic, bold, and resolutely modern. The collection also reflects, according to the designer, the fact that it is no longer men who choose fine jewelry for their wives, but strong women with means who buy for themselves. “ Women have more and more purchasing power and demand something they can actually wear, ” she explains. This could be a necklace that can be worn in a multitude of different ways or that captures the attention of others. Either way, says Amfitheatrof, “ it’s fun, it’s youthful, it has a lot of character. ”
The Adventure chapter of the collection revolves around another bold necklace, this time in emeralds with alternating round and baguette diamonds. A ring with a 2.97-carat emerald and 68 custom-cut diamonds is also part of the set.
The secret of Louis Vuitton's success
Having made a name for himself in the respected art of box-making under Monsieur Maréchal in the years following his arrival in Paris, which led to his becoming the personal box-maker to Empress Eugénie de Montijo, wife of Napoleon III, Vuitton founded his own company in 1854. He quickly found success. The quality and inventiveness of his products won him an international clientele. Notably among foreign royalty. “ He was constantly innovating, but without ever losing practicality, ” explains Amfitheatrof. “ He always aimed for a pared-down elegance, which means that even today, he remains relevant .”
The collection’s Trailblazer necklace pays homage to Louis Vuitton’s continued central role at the house. This elegant pièce de résistance features a winged V set with white diamonds on one side and a striking band of sapphires that shift from purple to pink to create what Amfitheatrof describes as “ a beautiful transition of tones as the stones wrap around your neck .” It took three years to gather sapphires of the same quality and brilliance needed to create the necklace, including one Amfitheatrof found while gem hunting at the Tucson Gem Show. Back in Paris, the challenge was to arrange them into a perfect mosaic that would sit comfortably on the collarbone. “ That play of light and attention to detail is, to me, the essence of fine jewelry, ” she said. Most importantly, the necklace represents the determined and innovative path that the house’s founder set and continues to point to today. “ It remains our North Star, ” she said. “ We know who we are and that means we can continue to push the boundaries. ”
- Used long necklace
Le Mythe necklace, highlight of the Bravery collection
The piece de resistance of the Bravery collection is however the Le Mythe necklace . Composed of 3 rows, this jewel brings together several Louis Vuitton signatures:
- The Damier (checkerboard) pattern
- Nails
- Patterns inspired by trunk locks and the icon
- The flower motif
Encrusted with sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, it represents Vuitton laying the foundations of his house. It is now a global player in luxury jewelry . The company is worth nearly $15 billion. A feat that is certainly worth celebrating.
