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Article: How to build a collection of antique jewelry?

Comment se constituer une collection de bijoux anciens ?

How to build a collection of antique jewelry?

Knowing how to distinguish a genuine antique jewel from an imitation, knowing how to assess its value : these are things that seem very complicated for the uninitiated. By purchasing your antique jewelry from Miller , you can be sure of acquiring authentic pieces that have been appraised, at fair prices. But if you enjoy rummaging around the markets, here are some tips that should help you build a collection of vintage and art deco jewelry .

Photo credit: Christie’s

Internet: your ally

Before we get into this, you're in luck. People who were interested in antique jewelry even twenty years ago faced a much more daunting challenge. Today, you can get tons of answers by typing a few keywords into Google. Before that, you had to constantly visit experts, browse books , and so on. It's therefore much easier to build an expertise in antique jewelry today.

However, the Internet is not a panacea either. Nothing replaces talking to enthusiasts who have extensive knowledge in the field, or visiting specialized jewelry stores like Miller Paris. If you truly love jewelry, the path to knowledge will be enjoyable. Of course, you will make mistakes; this is completely normal in any learning process. But you may also make rare discoveries, such as Sterlé rings. In the world of collecting, you can't win every time, and this also applies to vintage jewelry .

Collecting antique jewelry, an expensive passion?

Antique jewelry is like contemporary pieces: there is something for every budget . In this type of jewelry, the most important criteria are authenticity and the uniqueness of a piece. It is also important to choose vintage jewelry that you like and that suits you.

1925 Art Deco Bracelet – Miller Antique Jewelry

Because even if we collect, jewelry is first and foremost made to be worn . It must speak to you, touch you. Simon Teakle, who was head of the jewelry department at Christie's New York for 20 years and then opened his own boutique specializing in antique jewelry, says no different:

When you invest in jewelry, you are investing in your present and future happiness. You may part with some pieces eventually, but when you begin your collection, you must educate yourself and familiarize yourself with the different periods. When you are starting out, whether the jewelry is signed or not is not important, and it does not matter if the pieces you are buying do not perfectly correspond to the theoretical description of a piece of jewelry from that period. The important thing is that the antique jewelry is authentic and that you like it.

Vintage jewelry you've fallen for

According to Dana Kiyomura, this love at first sight parameter is the most important when starting such a collection:

For beginners, the best way to start, and gradually expand your knowledge, is to listen to your heart. You should choose according to your sensibilities, your lifestyle, and your way of dressing. Choose antique jewelry that you can wear every day.

And as your passion grows and your knowledge deepens, you can specialize in periods you particularly enjoy, and acquire more expensive signature pieces that become investments. Right now, the most important thing is to train your eye, to wear things you really like. This will help you find your calling. Will you become a thematic collector, or a period-specific collector, or someone who picks up everything?

Following your personal tastes can sometimes lead to good investments. While not everyone is Karl Lagerfeld, he was one of the first to take an interest in antique Suzanne Belperron brooches , which are now highly sought after.

Jewelry that retains its value

While the emotional aspect is important, you shouldn't rush into buying something because you've fallen in love with an antique piece of jewelry . The higher the price, the more important it is to consider the following criteria to ensure that the piece you're buying will at least retain its value, or appreciate in value:

  • Quality materials (gold, platinum, etc.)
  • Pieces with impeccable finishes, a sign of first-rate know-how
  • Rarity

In our next article, we will give you specific suggestions for antique jewelry that are perfect for starting a collection .

See also: our Art Deco rings from the 1920s

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