Dior jewelry according to Victoire de Castellane

“ I couldn’t imagine my life without jewelry, ” said Victoire de Castellane , surrounded by magnificent, sparkling pieces from her latest collection at Dior’s New York jewelry store on ^57th Street.

“ It would be so sad, they are such an integral part of my life. ” Much of de Castellane’s success can be explained by this sincere, authentic, and unpretentious passion for jewelry . Last year, she celebrated her 20th anniversary as creative director of Dior ’s high jewelry collections. She was working on a 100-piece luxury jewelry collection, the largest of her career, which was set to debut for the fall 2019 runway.

Last October, she was in New York to meet with exclusive clients and offer them equally exclusive pieces from her collections. There were cocktail rings from her very first Dior jewelry collection (1999), XXL and very glamorous rings, not unlike the rings John Galliano made at the time. There were also jewels with hidden symbols, as well as secret compartments, from her Versailles-inspired collection. Skull necklaces , which are now her trademark, and very popular with young women on a tight budget. Rose Dior Bagatelle rings, with their incredibly realistic petals set with diamonds. And finally, pastel-toned earrings from her Granville collection, named after Dior's childhood home in Granville, Normandy.

Seeing all of these jewels gathered in one piece only reinforces the imprint that de Castellane has left on Dior jewelry . “ When I think about what I’ve done for the house over the last 20 years, it’s like we’ve started to write a story with multiple identities, codes, and colors that have become my own, ” she said. “ I work with a lot of traditional and classic themes, but I think I interpret them with my inner child. For me, Dior jewelry is really a mix of traditional influences and a freer interpretation. ”

This often brings us back to 3 omnipresent themes that define his work:

• The Dior archives (from couture to materials to Monsieur Dior himself)
• Asymmetry , which she often uses in a subtle, hidden way
• And, most of all, his belief that jewelry is above all emotional , a sentimental treasure. Something “that becomes a part of you.”

In October 2018, Victoire de Castellane took the time to discuss her career with Vogue. Her favorite jewels, how women's attitudes towards jewelry have evolved, her 2 decades at Dior... many themes were discussed.

Asymmetry, one of the secrets of de Castellane's Dior jewels since its beginnings

“ When I start creating a piece of jewelry, I always start working on asymmetry, ” de Castellane explained. “ Even for my Incroyable cocktail rings, each side is different, so when you’re alone with your ring you can look at it from all angles and let your imagination wander. There’s not just one way to look at it, it’s open. I like this idea of ​​openness in jewelry design. ”

Wherever you look, this taste for asymmetry is evident. For example, her new Dior Dior Dior collection features probably the most daring earrings she has ever created, a bit like her pair of cultured pearl earrings, one in yellow gold, the other in white gold. It is easy to see these atypical earrings on the ears of a young celebrity, or simply an anonymous young woman who simply loves unique and surprising jewelry .

“ Today, women wear jewelry in a completely different way, especially young people, ” said de Castellane. “ Before, customers mostly came from a bourgeois environment, they often wore a set, sometimes just for going out. Today, the spirit is more bohemian, we wear our jewelry more on a daily basis, and for me it must be an integral part of yourself. The total look is a thing of the past.”

When I started in the jewelry world, I thought that jewelry could make you look older than you are, especially when you wear it seriously, you can look 10 years older! But today, by mixing pieces you can rejuvenate, have fun.

Interpretation of Monsieur Dior’s codes

20 years is not a long time considering that the house of Dior is over 70 years old. Victoire de Castellane has created several jewelry collections based on the house's creator's love of gardens and flowers . She regularly scours Dior's archives to draw inspiration from Dior's fabrics, couture techniques, and classic silhouettes. For example, the new Dior Dior Dior collection is a tribute to the lace of yesteryear. It features necklaces as light as air and ultra-thin rings .

All the designers who came after Monsieur Dior used lace, including Ralf Simons when he was inspired by the 1946 Miss Dior dress, which inspired the emerald Bar Corolle Emeraude bracelet. " I don't work at the same pace as fashion designers, because when I create I have to work two years in advance. But since I'm inspired by the house of Dior, when a new ready-to-wear designer arrives I immerse myself in what he does. "

Jewelry tells a story for all generations

“ When I create a piece of jewelry, I also like to think that I am creating it for a small family, ” she continues. “ When I want to make a rose ring, I think about what my grandmother would like, even if her granddaughter has different tastes. I try to think about different types of women and girls, who are different, who will wear my jewelry. That’s why I like to create different jewelry, pieces that will appeal to different types of women, or that will be affordable for young girls who don’t have a lot of money. It’s with this philosophy that I created the small Rose de Vents chain rings and the Oui rings. It allows you to wear real jewelry when you are young, when you want something fresh and you don’t necessarily want to wait for someone to give it to you. I really like to play with the little one. ”

Her Memento Mori skull rings and necklaces can also be placed in this category. Antique jewelry that has become collector's items today, by the way. That said, what jewelry does Castellane wear? For this interview, she wore a very youthful and eclectic mix of rings of all sizes. Gemstone rings, a vintage wedding band , a turquoise cocktail ring and a pearl ring from her grandmother. " Every time I look at her, I think of her, " she said.

“ Your jewelry becomes a part of your life. It’s like a tattoo. When people get a tattoo, they want something that tells a story. It’s exactly the same with jewelry. I love watching women wear jewelry, it’s so fascinating. When you move, your earrings move with you, it’s a bit of a continuation of your movements. I think it’s very sensual and intimate. When I see a woman wearing jewelry, I think that whatever she’s wearing, she likes it. It’s a very strong feeling, maybe she’s wearing a piece of jewelry from her mother and grandmother, which has a strong sentimental value. Also, wearing jewelry on a daily basis is all the more interesting because it gives you a sparkle. It’s really like makeup, ” she concludes.